Tag Archives: Chianti

WOTM: Badia a Coltibuono ‘Cultus’ Chianti Classico Riserva 2017

We are taking a closer look at some of the new additions to our portfolio with our Wine of the Month for March; Badia a Coltibuono and its ‘Cultus’ Chianti Classico Riserva. An incredible location and region is the perfect backdrop to the rich history and legacy of such an estate. 

In a nutshell

Ripe red fruits and flora notes follow in the wake of a balsamic quality. Bursting with character with a lifting assortment of chocolate, liquorice and an elegant finish that lingers pleasantly on the palate.

The producer

In 1051, the abbey called “Badia” was inhabited by a community of Vallombrosan monks who dedicated their time and effort to study, aiding those in need and cultivation of vines and olive trees. The monks excelled in the practical elements of agricultural development and they chose the name ‘Badia a Coltusboni’, Latin for ‘good worship, good agriculture and good harvest’. Over a tumultuous period of history for Italy, the abbey was handed over to many, but in 1846 the 74 hectare estate was purchased and has been passed down through 6 generations of the Stucchi Prinetti family. Today, the family have leant themselves purely to the development of their estate, hospitality and their family’s heritage in terms of winemaking methods and customs.

The wine

The blend of the ‘Cultus’ (‘cultivation’ in Latin) is primarily Sangiovese, but with traditional varieties of Colorino, Canaiolo and Ciliegiolo added to bolster the flavour. These varieties were replanted recently to more traditional propagation methods in an effort to maintain the legacy and spirit of the estate’s history. The elevation of the vines at 250 – 330 metres help to keep the vines aerated and ventilated, keeping them healthy in the warmth of the region. Hand harvested fruit are met with wild yeasts in the winery as fermentation took place in stainless steel tanks. The skins were left to macerate for 20 to 35 days and afterwards the wine was aged in 225l French oak barriques for 14 to 16 months.

Poise, elegance, balance – a Nureyev wine

You forget just how steep the vineyards can be in Tuscany. Rolling hills, lone cypress trees, hilltop villages and medieval fortresses, yes, they all spring to mind when you think of Chiantishire. But, crikey, this is a steep slope.

We are at the top of the hill and the vines on both sides are majestic, the patterned seersucker rows stretching hypnotically into the distance. This is EM Forster country, but all I can think of is: I hope this driver knows what he is doing. There are four Land Rovers in single file formation, and our driver waits until the one in front has negotiated the slope before engaging the gears. And away we slither.

But, of course, we need not have worried. Riccardo Giorgi and his team are not only excellent winemakers, but they are expert at manoeuvring four wheel drives around the vineyard. And what a vineyard!

Tenuta Perano lies in the heart of the Chianti Classico region in Gaiole. And the reason for the procession of four wheel drives is because Frescobaldi have invited 50 or so of their distributors from around the world to enjoy their first sight of the new estate. Later on there will be hot air balloons, a presentation from Lamberto Frescobaldi and a steak cooked by rock star Panzano chef Dario Cecchini.

Two things strike you immediately: the altitude (“it is 500 metres above sea level compared to 250 metres for Nipozzano,” Lamberto Frescobaldi tells me later, over dinner). And the estate lies in a beautiful amphitheatre which catches every last drop of the sun. This is balanced by the tramontana wind, which sweeps through at night to lower the temperature. It is this combination of altitude, vineyard siting and the free draining galestro soil that gives the Perano wines such character.

The estate now produces three wines, a Classico, a Classico Riserva and a Gran Selezione “Rialzi”. “There will be no IGTs from here,” says Lamberto. I can’t wait to taste them over dinner.

But first, I almost come a cropper in the hotel air balloon. It all looks a bit precarious and the wind isn’t helping, but I manfully haul myself into the small basket with three other distributors, all of us wearing looks of trepidation. The weather is playing up, and it takes a long time before lift-off, and when it does the hot flame which our pilot blows into the balloon seems to come perilously close to my head. These days I haven’t got much up top and for a moment I worry about getting my bonce singed. Meanwhile, one of the spectating distributors shouts up to the pilot: “Don’t lose that salesman – he’s my best man and sells thousands of cases!”

When we eventually make it back down – thank God – we are then taken on a tour of the winery – probably the most pristine I’ve ever seen.

And then comes the T-bone!

The legendary showman Cecchini (strapline: Abandon Hope All Ye Who Enter) enters to a blaze of klaxon horns. “To the table!” he exhorts, kissing everyone, and dishing out huge wedges of beef. It is complete chaos but no-one seems to care. The steak is sublime – and doesn’t he know it! Later on I queue to get my photograph taken with him like some fawning teenager. But, then, everyone else does.

Meanwhile, I listen to Lamberto talk about the wines. “We are looking for poise and elegance, and balance here,” he explains. He tastes the Classico. “This is a Nureyev wine,” he says.  The Riserva has more weight, but the tannins are sweet and soft. “This is a feminine wine,” he says. And then we move on to the Gran Selezione, the Rialzi, which means rise in the land. “This one is masculine,” he says.

Talking of masculinity, here comes the marching Cecchini again, now singing. Best to keep my head down, eat his steak and drink the wonderful wines.